CONSTRUCTION
USING SCREWS

The quality of jewelry is determined by the original conception. Several components parts may be made separately, and sometimes a construction that uses screws to join them together is best. If so, the key to quality lies in making this decision at the time of conception. An attempt to make the jewelry as a single piece may place limits on its form, or prevent thorough finishing of certain areas, thus preventing the possibility of making a beautiful finished piece.

Construction using screws allows gemstones to be set in places that would otherwise be impossible. Its other advantages include the capacity for three-dimensional construction and improved durability. The only disadvantages are that it is labor intensive and requires a high level of skill, resulting in higher manufacturing costs. Yet if screws can be used to make something of more value than the difference in cost, then it is a very valuable technique indeed.

Construction using screws is often seen in antique jewelry from the era of England’s Queen Victoria (1837-1901). The precision and durability of many of these pieces is impressive.

To improve the beauty of the finish in jewelry with a three-dimensional style that combines several prong settings, the stones are initially set so that the settings can be polished, Afterwards, the stones are removed, the settings are soldered together, and the stones are reset.