SUWA
SOURCES AND COLORS

The octocorallia coral that is used for gem purpose is harvested from three main areas- the Mediterranean Sea; Japan and Taiwan; and Hawaii and Midway. The size, color, and quality of the raw material vary widely between these sources. Differences in the natural environment cause each type of coral to have different characteristics.
 
Weight:0.99g
Size(mm):L11.8 xW11.6 xD5.23
Bleached
US$40
Weight:0.72g
Size(mm):L11.9 xW7.9 xD5.27
Untreated
US$300
 
Mediterranean Sea

The history of coral begins with coral from the Mediterranean. Mediterranean Sea coral is of the type corallium rubrum, a valuable, crimson-red coral. While its tone may vary, it is always red. This coral is easy to process because of its even color distribution, but it comes in limited sizes and appears in the market mostly as beads, cabochons, and buttons. The Mediterranean Sea coral pictured here is a deep red coral that is also called "ox blood."
Japan Taiwan

This coral provides colors such as peach and angel skin that can be called the essence of coral. On top of this, raw branches can exceed lengths of one meter (39inches) and may weigh more than ten kilograms (22lbs), surpassing coral from other sources as far as size is concerned. Red and white material covering a wide range of tone levels also is harvested from Japan and Taiwan. Since the early 20th century, this coral was exported to Italy in its raw from and used as a component of jewelry, but its heavily mottled red and pink colors make it a difficult material to process. Many coral sculptures that take advantage of this material's size were created in Japan and Taiwan.
 
Weight:15.37g
Size(mm):Dia.22
Untreated
US$2,500
 
Weight:1.64g
Size(mm):L16.0 xW12.0 xD5.46
Untreated
US$25
 
Hawaii Midway

In the 1960s, gem-quality coral was discovered at depths of 350 to 400 meters (1,150-1,300 feet) in the waters around Midway Island. While, peach, and mixtures of these colors were harvested, as well as beautiful colors similar to angel skin. Some of the coral in these waters are harvested from depths of 2,000 meters (6,500 feet). Small pieces of coral from Hawaii/Midway have a dark color, but as the pieces get larger they take on a pink color and show stripes, eventually assuming an appearance of many red spots scattered on a pink background (as shown in the photograph). Large pieces also tend to fracture more severely.
JUDGING QUALITY

The main quality considerations for coral beads and cabochons are shape, the presence of pits or fractures, and the degree of color mottling. From the standpoint of shape, the quality of beads is judged by whether they are perfectly spherical or not. For cabochons, on the other hand, the balance of the outline or silhouette and the height of the cabochone are important considerations. The presence of pits and fractures is a fatal flaw, but no pieces are totally free from color mottling or spotting. As long as these do not detract from beauty when viewed with the unaided eye, quality can be judged according to the overall balance of the piece.

Beauty grade S on the quality scale represents material that is truly rare. At best, it accounts for only ten percent of all gem-quality material, which in turn represents only one percent of all coral. Pieces exceeding 10 millimeters (0.39 inch) are especially rare. Strictly speaking, every piece of coral created by nature is different, each with its own unique character. As long as fractures and color mottling are not serious flaws, they might even be thought of as evidence of the uniqueness of each piece. Creating a market environment where a degree of pitting and fracturing is permitted is a priority in the world of coral jewelry.

It is important that the beads in necklaces match in overall color and size, and that the drill holes for stringing are precisely centered.
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