A beauty that remains unchanged over the years is
part of the appeal of untreated emeralds
Untreated emeralds are made into gemstones by polishing only the high-quality portions of the rough material. The emerald as shown in the photograph on the next page is a 0.7-carat untreated Zambian emerald with a beautiful green color. A close look shows that there are dark facets, light facets, and reflecting facets, which combine to create a balanced mosaic pattern.

In many cases, some imperfections will be visible in an untreated emerald. Emerald crystals often have many imperfections, and it is impossible for a cutter to avoid all of them when polishing a stone. As long as beauty and durability are not significantly affected, it is important to judge the quality of the gemstone by looking at its overall appearance without being too concerned about these imperfections. Since untreated emeralds are not impregnated with oils or polymers to hide imperfections, there is no risk that they will lose their beauty later due to the reappearance of fractures as these fillers deteriorate. Gemstones are products of nature, and it would be a mistake to expect perfection from them. It is up to us to be able to judge when an imperfection is not a defect, and therefore something we should accept.
The emerald ring shown below is a three-stone ring set with oval-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds on either side. The three-stone ring is a traditional adornment style that brings out the combined beauty of the gemstones used. The emerald is held in place by wide prongs of yellow gold that also serve to protect it. Setting an emerald in yellow gold imparts yellow to the green color, further bringing out its beauty. The use of yellow gold is especially indispensable for the strongly bluish color of Zambian emeralds.

One major source of untreated emeralds is the Sandawana mine in Zimbabwe. These emeralds average only 0.08 carat, but aside from low-quality material, they are not oil-treated. Untreated emeralds also come from the Swat district in Pakistan, the Panjir Valley in Afghanistan, and Brazil. Also, there are some Colombian emeralds with very few imperfections that can be confirmed as being untreated.
Ring, Gold/Platinum
Zambian Emerald 1 pc
1.35 ct
Diamond 2 pc
US $30,000