THE TIFFANY SETTING
The facet that the diamond in this ring is secure in its setting, despite the slight amount of precious metal actually holding it, attests to a high degree of expertise in its manufacture. As can be seen in the top photograph, the tips of each of the six prongs point precisely to a single point in the center of the diamond.
In 1886, Tiffany & Co. introduced the “Tiffany” setting, which set a diamond in prongs high above the shank. This was an original setting created with the intent of allowing as much light as possible to enter the diamond, thereby maximizing the beauty of the diamond’s brilliance. This revolutionary setting style spread rapidly throughout the world.
Because of the highly accomplished nature of the concept behind this setting, there has been no need for major changes in how the gemstone is actually set. Comparing this solitaire ring with the one shown on the preceding page, however, one can clearly see that the arrangement of the shank and bezel portions differs between eras.
As seen in the bottom photograph, the modern ring’s shank has a peaked, knife-edge shape. The peak gets taller as it approaches the prongs, and the area where the shank connects to the bezel (or stone seat) is very tight, giving it a more streamlined appearance. Such changes are the result of efforts to make the overall shape of the ring smoother and more refined. Jewelry adapts to the times, as lifestyle and tastes continually change.
Through the combination of skill and tradition, the solitaire ring continued its evolution toward an increasingly modern and beautiful form, while still maintaining its classic and profound aura.
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