The brooch on the right, which contains mandarin garnets, represents the beauty of an autumn-tinted leaf in the sunlight. The combination of the garnets’ dispersion and the yellow diamonds adds a display of sparkling color. This is a beautiful expression of that moment when the leaf may fall to the ground at any time, and begin its final change to a deep purple-red.

The metalwork on the back of this brooch is worked in a honeycomb-like pattern, called ajour. Its purpose is to enable sufficient light to pass through the backs of the mandarin garnets and yellow diamonds. Each of the lines in the framework is cut deeply, leaving large openings. The metalwork is meticulously polished and all unnecessary precious metal is removed, allowing the weight of the piece to be minimized. Casting techniques are often employed when constructing a frame to allow more precision in areas such as the placement of the gemstones, the three-dimensionality of the piece, and its volume. The finishing process, however, is done totally by hand. When casting is used, there is the chance that unexpected pores may appear during the finishing process, making it necessary to start over from the beginning. Casting, though by no means an easier method than making a piece completely by hand, is a necessary part of creating the finest jewelry possible.