Below is a brooch and earring set from 180 years ago, the late Georgian period in England. The style is completely different from that of the ruby necklace shown on page 95.
This set is made of gold, which was limited and therefore even more precious during the Georgian period. In these pieces, we can see how innovations were applied to make splendid jewelry using as little gold as possible. (The pendant is 5.76 grams, the earrings 5.78 grams.) This style of twisting thin strands of gold and winding them, called cannetille, was once very popular in aristocratic circles.
The backs of these pieces are closed settings, a style that completely covers the backs of transparent gemstones with metal. In fact, the topazes here are actually colorless topazes with colored foil applied to their backs to make them look pink, a process that was fairly routine at the time this jewelry was made.
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In this way, styles are influenced by the types, quantities, and qualities of materials that are available at the time. The styles of gemstones-oriented jewelry that blossomed during the second half the 20th century were supported by increased gemstone production and advances in stone-cutting techniques. The environment will change in the 21st century, and new styles will emerge. |
