“Fancy shape” is a general term that refers to any cutting style other than what is considered standard for a particular gemstone. In the ease of diamonds, any shape other than round is called a fancy shape. The standard cut for Colombian emeralds is the emerald cut, meaning that any other shapes (including rounds) can be thought of as fancy shapes. The type of cut depends on the rough material: Most diamond rough is best suited for emerald cuts. For each of these gemstones, the standard shape is also the cutting style that brings out the maximum beauty.

Seventy to eighty percent of all diamonds are cut into rounds, and the rest are polished into the various fancy shapes. Round brilliants are popular for their extraordinarily beautiful brilliance. The circular shape puts the refraction and reflection of light to work with no waste, concentration the optical and physical properties of diamond into a powerful beauty. The fact that the round shape is easiest to incorporate into jewelry is another reason for its popularity.

The princess cut, unlike other fancy shapes, is polished from the same type of rough material as rounds. Its deep cut results in less weight loss. When small princess-cut diamonds are set side-by-side in jewelry, they line up seamlessly and exhibit the unique beauty of a succession of gemstones. This is a very attractive feature. Over the past 30 years, the princess cut has surpassed the other traditional brilliant and step cuts, taking its place as the premier fancy shape for diamonds.

With the advance of laser technology in recent years, star shapes and other “fancy fancies” with unusual shapes and facet arrangements have been developed. Time will tell whether or not these shapes are able to break out of the realm of mere fashion to make their way into custom, and eventually tradition.