SUWA
MAXIMUM GEM/
MINIMUM METAL

From the side of this ring, one can see that the diamond’s table facets are positioned considerably higher than the surface of the metal. As the diamonds are set higher, that much more of the ring’s surface is taken up by the diamonds instead of the metal. This way, more diamond covers the limited space available, enhancing the beauty of the piece. To raise the table surface, diamonds with somewhat higher crowns (like the diamond on the left in the photograph below) are used. Because of the firmly established and somewhat standardized nature of the round brilliant cut, not many diamonds are polished with the higher crown, making it necessary to specifically ask the cutter for diamonds that are cut that way.

Speaking of specialized cutting, diamonds with precise symmetry became popular in Japan during the 1990s, based on the notion that diamonds showing a pattern of heart shapes in the pavilion when viewed from the bottom were superior. In fact, this is something that merely increases costs and is unrelated to the essential beauty of diamonds. Cutting a higher crown in order to be able to create jewelry with character has meaning. However, to increase costs for something that has nothing to do with the essence of diamond jewelry- such as whether or not a heart appears-suggests a misunderstanding of what is really important.

Similar types of jewelry are created repeatedly over time. Since ancient times, similar pieces have been used in similar ways. Being products of nature, rough gemstones never undergo modifications or improvements the way automobiles or computers do, and just as basic human emotions and desires remain unchanged, the essence of the form of jewelry does not vary. However, the technology involved in finding gemstone rough, as well as polishing and manufacturing techniques, steady advances to provide an environment where increasingly beautiful jewelry can be created. This simple pavé-set dome ring, realized through a combination of ancient form and modern improved techniques, provides a hint for those aiming to create the jewelry of the 21st century.
 
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