SUWA
STONE SETTING,
PART THREE

The gemstones in these three rings differ in both arrangement and setting method. Ring A is the same pavé-setting shown on the previous pages. Ring B is a repeating bar setting in three rows, while C uses a combination of bar setting and prong setting. A can be seen, there are many possibilities for setting stones in the same amount of space in jewelry, depending on the shapes and sizes of the gemstones. Furthermore, sapphires could be substituted for the yellow diamonds in Ring C; by changing the precious metal to yellow gold, rubies or emeralds could be used as well. A wide variety of combinations are possible. However, 950 platinum is softer and about 1.5 times heavier than 750 gold, and colored stones are often cut deeper than diamonds, making them more difficult to set. These factors must be kept in mind when developing a conception for jewelry. Still, imaginative combinations of stone setting styles, gemstones, and precious metals provide many opportunities for the creation of unique, beautiful jewelry.

How well a stone is set depends on three factors: (1) the appropriate construction of the stone seating, as seen in the size and shape of the prongs or the width and height of the bezel; (2) the nature of the gemstones themselves, such as the facet arrangements and depths of the stones; and (3) the actual skill of the stone setter. Regarding the nature of the gemstones, if an attractive pavé-set dome ring style is made larger or smaller using the same number of diamonds, it may not longer exhibit its full beauty. The balance will be thrown off, possibly causing the central diamonds to project too much brilliance, or causing the smaller diamonds’ brilliance to appear weak. Jewelry is created through a process of trial and error, and there is always a justifiable reason for the success or failure of a piece.

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